If you missed it --> The Beach

Somehow "Puerto Escondido" makes for a better story than "Surfside." I may have to employ some poetic license in the syndicated version.

I used to just body surf too but since the kids I got turned onto the boogie board--had to tech em how to do it, ya know. The boogie board makes for a much better ride. The first time I got up on a monster wave I was hooked.

I break a board about every second or third trip so I got one of the flexible ones. It has held up for a couple of seasons but tends to sag abit under my substantial displacement. The Styrofoam is the best way to go short of getting an expensive board but you have to be careful with the Styrofoam when fighting to get over the big breakers. If you are not careful the waves will slap that piece of Styrofoam upside you head so hard it'll break your nose and bust your lip. I've only had the busted lip. It doesn't happen too many times after the first time but it still happens.

And yes, it was too risky for me to have been in the water the other day, especially alone, but those were the biggest waves I've seen since more than a year and I went against my better judgement. I am known for doing that sometimes. In high school I was most likely not to see my twentieth birthday. Not that I am anything like I was in high school, but even back then everything was a calculated risk. So I did at least recalculate the risks once I got out to the sandbar and decided to abort, it was just almost too late.

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